Essential Knowledge

In a Nutshell

The following information (based on brief points) is a GUIDE TO 'USER FRIENDLY' FME machines/equipment which can have subtle differences. A technique that works on one machine may need to be modified on another, especially on some computerised models.

All machines will perform FME. The set up of some models is easier than others. Read the user manual under the 'darning' section to become familiar with the operation of your machine and for assistance with problem solving.

Clean and service your machine regularly. Neglect will be inconvenient and costly.

Double click each heading for explanation. Click to close
Bobbin Tension: The bobbin and top tensions need to be balanced. Incorrect tension produces stitches that are tight or too loose. However, some techniques require the bobbin tension to be loosened.	Commonsense: Devote a short time to researching and testing a product to ensure that it enhances and is appropriate for your purpose especially, if you are experimenting in ways different to its intended use. Never mix products without researching and testing. Take responsibility for what you are putting into your embroidery.
Costing Sheets: Recording the cost, brand, dye lot and quantities of items used is beneficial for tax purposes, stock control and for determining the cost for potential commissions.	Cover Plate: Positioned under the needle and used to cover the feed dogs and bobbin housing. it is also referred to as a throat or needle plate etc.
Darning Foot: A specialized foot attachment designed for darning and FME (it is also called a quilting, big foot etc). Metal or plastic, round or square in shape, has an open or closed toe and a springing action to permit freedom of movement whilst simultaneously holding the fabric in place as you stitch. It must be for your model machine. Spring loaded needles are readily available as an emergency. For safety reasons many teaching institutions will not permit machines to be operated without a guard around the needle.	Doodle Cloth: Ideas will come to you while stitching however, the job at hand requires all your attention. Keep a piece of stabilized calico near the machine to record ideas. A new stitch/technique may be discovered by way of a 'happy accident'. Record this by stitching on the D Cloth and make a few reference notes in pencil. A colour scheme, a texture, a fabric or thread may have unexpected, pleasant outcomes and result in ideas for ongoing applications. The machine may be having mechanical problems. Sewing on a D cloth quickly helps solve problems.
Feed Dogs. How and Why: Refer to the machine manual for instructions on how to lower them. When machining, the lowering or covering of the feed dogs allows the fabric to move freely in any direction under the needle/darning foot. Experienced users may be unaware they are not lowered or covered.	Feed Dogs (lowered): A little exercise for you to try: 1. Select threads and prepare the machine for FME. Place a stable interfacing or pelmet vilene under the darning foot. 2. Place fingers gently on the fabric to hold in position. 3. Now stitch. You will notice that the needle is stitching up and down on the same spot. Next, move the fabric slowly away from you, then move the fabric toward you and then move sideways etc. Your hands are in control. Try writing your name, draw circles and squares etc. Remember...The slower you push the fabric under thee needle the smaller the stitch and the faster you move the fabric under the foot the larger the stitch. Now try this ... Do the same exercise as before only this time as you move the work slowly under the fabric run the machine at a fast speed. I tend to advocate operating the machine at an even speed. Reason being that a lot of the threads on the market today are of poor quality and breakage will occur more often if the speed is erratic, jerky or too fast. Also, you will experience annoying spool offs of both the bobbin and the top thread.
Filler Stitches: Specific method used to fill areas quickly and densely with stitches. Suitable stitches are granite, zigzag and decorative.	Finishing Off: This is an important design consideration. It must be planned at the commencement of the embroidery and not just as an after thought.
Free Hand or Knee Lift System: Not all machines provide this attachment. Used specifically to raise and lower the pressure foot. It saves time by allowing both hands to remain on the work surface.	Free Motion Embroidery - total flexibility: FME should not be confused with computerized embroidery. FME allows all stitch settings to be used while stitching in any direction. Refer to user manual under 'Darning'. The needle becomes the pencil/brush and the threads become the paint/colour and the machine becomse an art tool and the operator the Artist. Pre-select the stitch width when using any stitch other than straight stitch. A necessary safety exercise to do before using stitches other than straight is to prepare the machine for FME...and select a zigzag stitch. Set to maximum stitch width. Next, turn the fly wheel manually toward you and walk the machine through a complete stitch cycle. Ensure that the needle does not strike the throat plate or the side of the darning foot. Some machines have a stitch width range that may exceed the opening in the darning foot and/or needle plate. Reduce the stitch width as required.
Free Satin Stitch: This is simply a closed zigzag stitch.	Fusible Web: A fine web of glue supported by a backing paper. Manufactured under many trade names ie vlisofx, wonder under, bondaweb etc. and is available in powder form. Traditionally used in applique techniques. Contemporary applications are painted transfers, heat distortion and as a binder for foiling etc.
Glues, Gels and Art Products: Commonsense, health, safety practices, archival considerations are a necessity as some products release odours, discolour, crack and/or decompose quickly.	Hoop or No Hoop: With experience, using your hands can replace the need for a hoop. A hoop becomes a necessary tool to be used for specific techniques. A narrow wooded screw adjustment type approximately 18 centre meters works best.
Ironing is essential: Ironing neatens, flattens, stabilizes and prevents lumps, bumps and buckling occurring between each working layer especially when building up dense areas in stitch. Place the work right side down on a towel, cover with a sheet of baking paper etc. and iron using a dry iron. Blends of synthetic, natural fibres and art based products are often used. Therefore fusing, sticking and shrinkage can occur if not ironed correctly.	Knee Lift: Refer to 'Free Arm' section.
Large eye needles: Choose metalfil, metallica, jeans, topstitch or series with the code 'N' such as 130N. The size of the needle eye is extremely important for FME. The combination of constant directional change and use of multiple, metallic and thicker threads requires a larger eyed needle to ensure less drag on needle and thread.. A large eyed needle reduces thread fraying and breakages. I personally use a 130N size 90 needle for the majority of my work. Other needles such as twin, triple, wing etc. are also fun to use to create unusual textures.	Loosen the top tension: Directional changes occur frequently with FME. Loosening the top tension will provide more width/space in the tension disc and helps prevent drag on the threads especially at the point of directional change. More space/width in the race will also assist to accommodate multiple and thicker threads. Remember: To loosen the top tension, set the tension dial to a lower/smaller number To tighten the top tension, set the tension dial to a higher/larger number.
Machine speed and Foot Control: Operate the machine at an even steady speed whilst learning. Erratic and uneven machine speed causes thread spool offs on the top thread and in the bobbin. Needle breakages, snapped threads and pulling often occur at the point of directional change with erratic speed. The foot must NEVER be on the foot control unless the machine is stitching. A MUST safety consideration when FME.	Moving from one area to another: When stitching is completed....stitch up and down on the same spot to lock the thread ends. Ensure the needle finishes in the raised position. Raise the pressure foot and gently drag the work to a new stitching position. Next, lower the pressure foot and recommence stitching up and down on the same spot for a few stitches to lock the end threads. The loose trail of thread (between the stopping and starting points) can be either trimmed or left on the surface as decoration. Alternatively move from one area to another by stitching in a meandering line. Stitching in a straight line form one point to another will be obvious.
Multiple Threads: There are special accessories to accommodate multiple spools. Colour mixing and quicker coverage are some of the advantages of using multiple threads. Ensure the needle has a large eye and alter the top tension to accommodate the extra thickness of thread.... Refer to loosen top tension and large eye needle section. Remember ... multiple threads can also be wound onto the bobbin.	Needle set to down position: I highly recommend that you do not have this activated while learning. If the finger is accidentally pierced it may be come anchored to the tray table.
Posture: Sit in a tall upright comfortable position, directly behind the machine needle. Spread the knees apart. Chair height is very important. Hands, wrists and elbows to be level with the work tray.	Pressure foot lowering: Lowering the pressure foot, both controls and engages the upper tension race. Failure to do this can cause loops and bunches of threads underneath the work.
Product Suppliers: Google...art shops, craft shops, or the actual product name etc. Word of mouth is a wonderful way of becoming familiar with new products.	Question yourself regularly: Remind your self about using the correct colours, threads, stitches, fabrics etc. for your theme, concept and end usage.
Spool off: Stabilizing the work is essential. Using a stable foundation to support the work surface as stitching takes place is a necessity. No need to worry about the fabric grain. Multiple choices are available e.g. your hands, hoop, interfacings, tear away papers, soluble fabrics, nets, glue, paint etc. The thickness and colour will depend upon the 'works' final use and appearance. I use a natural fibre, woven, non iron interfacing.	Starting and Stopping ... thread ends: Practice run (walk through). Lower the pressure foot. Hold the end of the top thread in your left hand whilst turning the fly wheel toward you. The top thread will disappear down into the bobbin area connecting with the bobbin thread and pulling it through the hole in the throat plate onto the surface. Raise the pressure foot and pull the bobbin thread upwards. Now repeat the step by running the machine to pick up the bobbin thread. The right hand side of the bobbin thread loop is the end of the bobbin thread....less wastage. The real deal ... Pull the bobbin thread through to the surface and hold the two (top and bobbin threads) firmly out to the left side and commence stitching. After a few stiches simply cut off the thread ends after successfully locking the stitching. Stitch back over the starting point to ensure that all is secure. Finish off by locking the threads in the same manner as starting.
Stitch Length: This is determined by the speed the work is passed under the darning foot in relationship to the machine speed ie: - passed quickly under the needle combined with a slow machine speed =long stitches - passed slowly under the needle combined with a fast machine speed = small stitches	Stitch Length to Zero: This will stop the feed dogs moving back and forth under the cover plate. Many machines reset the stitch length when the stitch selection is altered.
Stitch Width: Important when using decorative stitches. Refer to Free Motion Embroidery section.	Stitches. Which are best? Straight stitch and zigzag stitch are the most commonly stitches used. However, any stitch can be used depending on the required technique, texture and need to fill areas quickly and densely in stitch. Stitch width becomes important when using any stitch other then straight stitch.
Technique ... What to use? Choose the technique/s most suited to the particular style of work.	Tension, Tone, Technique, Texture: The four Ts: Tension ... the machine tension disc setting. Tone ... Fibres and threads used to stitch colour onto the surface. Technique ... as selected Texture ... the result of combining the above Ts. Tension is part of the technique. Tone and Texture are the end result of the technique. Essential to all techniques
Time management Important when planning the working day and working towards a deadline. There is a lot of informative reading matter available on the subject.	Tray Table Important equipment that is required to support both your work and hands.
Threads to use All threads will work....some with a little more effort then others. When learning a good strong thread to use in the bobbin and on top of the machine is 'Rasant' brand or any other quality cotton thread. Metallic threads can be troublesome depending upon the 'twist' when manufactured. If all else fails...use them in the bobbin or group several threads together and zigzag over them as if making a machine wrapped cord. These can be used for hand embroidery, couching or in the bobbin for cable work.	Transfer Foils Colour transfer cellophane paper comes in many colours and finishes. The coloured cellophane requires a glue/adhesive/binder type of surface to lift and transfer the colour off the cellophane onto the fabric surface when heat or pressure is applied.
Trickery Oh! Sooo obvious! There are multitudes of product on to-days market for the textile artist to pursue. However moderation is the key. FME is an art form ... so, blending and merging of colours along with great composition and design skill is the key. I tell my students about the lady dressed in black with the bright yellow shoes. As she approaches it is'here comes the shoes, here comes the shoes'.